The highly anticipated Grand Opening of Clique Lounge,the latest venue from Clique Hospitality Group, will take place in mid-December. Already projected to be another triumph by restaurant and hospitality impressario Andy Masi, Clique Lounge will introduce to the Cosmopolitan Hotel and Casino the only lounge to serve food as well as a bar cart offering table side, premium cocktail service from expert mixologists who will talk to guests about featured fresh pressed juices, smoked garnishes, and other spectacular preparations. The cocktail menu is a diverse one with high-end spirits and experience-driven presentations. The menu by Chef Brian Massie presents small plates that are approachable and yet an inventive, explosion of multi-ethnic flavors.
Clique’s SignatureCocktail features Spring 44 Gin, Aloe Vera, Watermelon and Lime – shaken to perfection and garnished with ribbons of cucumber delicately resting on an art deco collins glass. Pictured above.
Chicken Skewers are served with Harissa Yogurt, spiced and refreshing; Lettuce Cups offering raw, dressed vegetables to add at your leisure; and Fattoush: seasoned and toasted pita bread to enjoy with the rest.
The kickoff event to Life is Beautiful was held at the SLS Foxtail Pool and the food was fantastic! Many of my faves were on hand to serve up some great food, but a few were noticeably absent . The cocktails by the liquor sponsors were varied and delish (I did not drink the tequila). And a good time was aimed for by all, but it wasn’t all good. Having chaired and worked several of these types of events, I know there is a lot that goes into them and a LOT that can go wrong. When it is an annual event in the same location like DISH or Taste of the Nation, there is always the opportunity to learn from mistakes and make it better the following year. While this event is annual, it is NOT in the same place every year, so new challenges arise with different staffing, planning teams and regulations based on the venue. The first time we attended G & G it was outdoors downtown, adjacent to the LIB grounds and it was phenomenal. Last year I missed out because I was out of town. This year John and I were both thinking it should return to downtown next year.
According to one of the staff members, the fire dept made them reconfigure the layout of the booths at the last minute and ALL of the grills, hot boxes, ovens, steamers and fryers were ALL in the same place, away from the stage for Spoon. The new layout caused huge bottle neck problems in traffic flow and while the event wasn’t oversold, it sure seemed like it trying to get through the throng of people. Incidentally the new layout also made it as hot as the gates of hell.
The Good
Echo & Rig’s oyster display. The grilled Oysters were one of the best bites of the night!
Wide variety of food – not the “slider fest” of recent events – Best bites? Shawarma from Cleo and Grilled Oysters from Echo & Rig
Excellent cocktail selections
Great photo opps for attendees with some of their fave celeb chefs
Beautiful venue
Chef Kim Canteenwalla in the background while one of the grillmasters shows off a Tomahawk Ribeye.
Ketel One had my fave drinks of the night, but there was a great Jack Daniels Peach offering as well
Chefs Hubert Keller and Laurent Pillard
The Bad
Ineffective door procedures. There was no Media Check-in set up when we arrived and once set up, I never saw anyone man that station. People were jumping into whichever line was moving faster (they had separate lines for GA tix holders and invited VIPs) and security wasn’t honoring the signage so people from the back of the line were getting in ahead of people who had patiently waited their turn. No clearly marked reentry area.
No smoking lounge – At every poolside event I have been to in this town there is a designated smoking area – even Vegas Uncork’d Grand Tasting. In order to vape or smoke you had to exit to the casino and wait in line all over again to get back in…because there was no clearly marked reentry
Hot as the gates of hell because all heating elements were in the same area and there was NO breeze at all. NO air circulation, nothing. Thank goodness I had my personal fan.
Only corporate beer was represented, no local or craft beer available. Dos Equis and Heineken were our only choices.
The Ugly
Poor customer service from the security and valet at the SLS.
The very first G & G we attended was a great value for the dollar. This one was a disappointment. Still I’d go back again next year, and every year after that.
And BTW – all these photos were taken with my Samsung Galaxy s6 – yes, really! To see all of the pics, go check out my FB page Good for Spooning.
With Football Season around corner, forget watching the game in your room or at the hotel bar and enjoy Monday Night Football season at Las Vegas’ Hearthstone Kitchen & Cellar at the Red Rock Hotel & Casino where you can kick back comfortably, nosh on $12 All You Can Eat Wings, drink $8 pitchers, and not miss one second of the action on the five 60 inch screens and eight 50 inch screens mounted around the restaurant and bar areas. In addition, Hearthstone has teamed up with Red Bull Blue Edition and 50 Bleu Vodka for an exclusiveSuper Bowl 50 contest. From September 14th – December 21st, every Monday, anyone who orders a Blue fifty-two cocktail (made with 50 Bleu Vodka, Lemonade, Blue Edition Red Bull) will be entered into a drawing for a chance to win (2) Two tickets to Super Bowl 50 in San Jose!
To make way for Monday night football, Hearthstone has moved their famous Vino Monday’s to Vino Tuesday’s. Come into Hearthstone from 5-10pmon Tuesday nights to enjoy your favorite high-end wines priced at $100 or more for 1/2 off.
Happily I was invited to the grand Opening event for Salute. Driving to Red Rock Casino, I told friend Lynn that I really didn’t want to go because I was in the mood for Chinese, not Italian. Then I admitted because I wasn’t in the mood, my thoughts on the food would probably be more accurate.
First off, the room is spacious and welcoming with unique light fixtures and gorgeous tile visible in the open kitchen. We were led past the dessert and garde manger station where chefs were at work creating antipasti, cakes, and salads. All were gorgeous to look at, and they will be sampled on my next visit as they weren’t part of our menu that evening. Upon arriving at the communal table I noticed there were no purse hooks under the table. That’s a “bar fail” in my book. Mentioning this to the PR rep there, she jumped all over the suggestion, so I will seek them out the next time I am in. A bigger aggravation for me were the TVs in the bar area. Look, if you want to be a sports bar, be a sports bar. Don’t put TVs in clear view of a dining room that is aiming to be a more “high end” concept. If you absolutely MUST have TVs put them on the outdoor patio. This restaurant is in a casino so guests can go to the sports book and watch the game there if they are that concerned.
Chef Luciano Sautto – note the gorgeous tile behind him. To the left with the small tiles is the pizza oven.
Chef Luciano Sautto helms the kitchen and his brother Enrico is the Maitre D’. Both gents are charming and the food we were treated to was excellent with only small missteps. I loved the nontraditional arancini filled with gooey cheese. Pastas were perfectly cooked and sauces clung to them beautifully. The Bolognese was wonderful and for a change you could actually taste the wine that was in it. Garnishes were both lovely and tasty. Fried basil, fried sage, edible flowers and large shavings of parmigiana all worked together to finish dishes beautifully. My two favorite dishes were the Veal Saltimbocca and the Fettuccini a la Vodka both in preparations I have never had before.
Ricotta stuffed squash blossoms
While traditional arancini has a small bit of meat in the center, these were loaded with gooey cheese!
Pappardelle with Bolognese
Lovely garnishes made this a stunner to look at!
The fettuccini was absolutely perfect! The dish is finished tableside in a hollowed Parmigiano Reggiano wheel. It was dinner and show, expertly performed and delivered by Enrico.
Enrico prepares the fettuccini in the hollowed out Parmigiano Reggiano wheel.
The veal is a marvel! Take the “ribeye” of the veal and make a tomahawk steak with it. Then pound it thin into a plate sized cutlet. Do the same with another boneless “ribeye”. Weld them together with fontina and prosciutto and then bread and pan fry. It was so good that I asked them to wrap the leftovers to bring home to Hubby John. This dish is plenty for 2 people to share as an entrée with a pasta dish and a side.
My fave dish of the night – Veal Saltimbocca
The few missteps were not significant and two COULD be attributed to the dishes being held for service. The Albacore Crudo was a bit acidic for me. There was so much bite that I couldn’t really taste the fish. Lynn disagreed with me. The Gnocchi were the biggest disappointment of the evening. They were gummy, sticky and a bit chewy. Not the light, fluffy pasta pillows they should have been. I can attribute this to overworking the dough, or being cooked and held for service. Whatever the reason, Lynn’s first comment was “LeAnne, yours are better.” The sauce however, was spot on with just enough sweetness to acid ratio. The final misstep was the Grilled Snapper. The piece we had was overcooked and a little dry, but again, this could be a service issue and may be worth another go.
Hamachi Tartare – I preferred this fish dish to the crudo. Much more balanced with Asian pears and pignoli nuts for crunch.
Gnocchi Sorrentino
Gorgeous in presentation, but slightly overcooked, the flavors were good enough to give it a second try.
Overall I was thoroughly pleased with my experience there and I look forward to going back. Rest assured, being off the Strip, the prices are more reasonable for some top quality food. There was a lot on the menu that intrigued me, like the whole salt roasted Branzino and some of the salads. I must return. That is all.
Everyone here in Vegas is all atwitter about Chick Fil A opening up and I say they can kiss my fat, fried chicken loving ass.
I consider myself to be an ally to the LGBTQ community and I also try to put my money where my mouth is. The chain and owner vocally railed against LGBTQ issues. Well…since half of my friends, my sister in law and so many others I know are part of the LGBTQ community I saw no reason to ever go back. I show my support – and displeasure – with my wallet when I walk out my front door. I don’t shop in W-mart and I choose to shop local when possible. I don’t fly Southwest, Frontier, Allegiant or Spirit. I don’t shop in Hobby Lobby, McD’s, Carl’s Jr. I actively avoid merchants who piss me off in one fashion or another and I will pay more money to have superior customer service. I know several people who feel the same way I do about LGBTQ issues and are still so excited about Chick Fil A opening in Vegas. I just don’t get it.
Let’s take political and social action off the table and be honest. The best thing about Chick Fil A is their hilarious Cow advertising. The fried chicken isn’t even that good! FYI – chicken is their first ingredient, salt is the second and MSG is the third (Moment of Truth – MSG is one of my 2 food allergies. I break out in hives).
So, if you need a fried chicken fix here in Vegas I suggest you try one of these places instead:
Mochiko Chicken – Trader Joe’s Plaza on Decatur – locally owned and operated with a variety of bowls, strips, sauces and good customer service. They are also big supporters of Breast Cancer related charities.
M & M Soul Food Café – Charleston & Valley View – Locally owned and operated. Trust me, just go. All the things you love about Southern food, including sweet tea and collards.
Fried chicken wings at Blue Ribbon Fried Chicken in Downtown Summerlin
Honey Salt – Charleston & Rampart – Locally owned and operated by the Blau Group, Chef Kim Canteenwalla makes a seriously good fried chicken sandWISH*. Huge supporters of Three Square Food Bank.
Yardbird – Venetian – I can’t say enough good things about this fried chicken. Flavorful to the bone and pressure fried in LARD…yeah, THAT. (pictured at the top of the page)
And if all else fails, go to Popeye’s.
I have a lot of friends who are “ethical eaters” for a variety of reasons. And I choose to eat and shop ethically as well. Ethical means a lot of things to a lot of different people, but the basic definition is:
pertaining to or dealing with morals or the principles of morality; pertaining to right and wrong in conduct
According to my mother, a company can choose to do whatever they like (clearly, they are PEOPLE according to congress after all). That’s true, but so can I. I do not have to spend my money in places I find morally repugnant. Choose one of the local options list above. I am quite sure they will appreciate your business MUCH more than corporate giants will.
I first met Nicole Brisson at Jolene Mannina’s Back of the House Brawls (BOH – the basis for the new FYI TV show Late Night Chef Fight). Together with Friend Sue Mancini we made up the only all-female judges’ table ever at the BOH. Nicole Brisson and I have a lot in common. We grew up in small towns in upstate New York. We had rough childhoods. We had a love for the restaurant business from an early age. But unlike me, Nicole did something about it starting in high school.
L – R : Nicole Brisson, Sue Mancini and me April 2013
Nicole moved out of the family home at 14 with her older sister and made her own way. Growing up in a town of 2000 (Rensselaerville, NY) not known for its culinary scene, with few role models of what a life in culinary could be, Nicole chose to enter a career based high school curriculum in culinary arts while working at a local restaurant. The owners of that restaurant encouraged, nurtured and taught her; and to this day she considers them dear friends, family and mentors. They saw the spark in her and pushed her, basically telling her in word and deed that she was better than her hometown. She was so good in her high school Vo-Tech program that she was given a scholarship to Johnson & Wales. Her exceptional performance in college gave her the opportunity to work in Italy as an apprentice and intern to powerhouse chefs too numerous to mention. She said of that opportunity, “I didn’t know it was a big deal until I got there. I just thought it would be something cool to do. I went there to work and learn and THEN I found out it was a huge deal.”
Now, after 20 years of hard work, Nicole is the Executive Chef of Carnevino, arguably the best steak house on The Strip and a jewel in the Batali & Bastianich Hospitality Group’s crown. The fact that she is currently, to the best of my knowledge, the only female Exec at a top tier restaurant at any major property on the Strip is remarkable. The fact that she is in her mid-thirties is astounding. When asked about this she shrugs and admits that even though the doors of culinary are open for women, it is still a men’s game at times. Socially she is quick with a smile and a laugh, with a sharp wit and sense of humor, so her transformation when working is startling. When you see Nicole in her chef whites she is controlled, calm and some would say shy, others would say stern. She has quietly and steadfastly carved out a niche for herself, not feeling the need to push, shove, scream or rant as others in her position, male and female alike, might have. She shared a story where she was “trying out” for a job and the other women were throwing elbows and trying to act tough as nails. It wasn’t her style and she basically just said, “Shut up and cook.” Nicole has allowed her work to speak for itself. She believes that the pace of the leader sets the pace of the pack and shows that through word and action. If she is calm and controlled, then her staff will be too. If she walks around acting like a coquettish goofball, then her staff will think that is ok…and it’s not. Walking through her kitchen during this interview she stopped and introduced each of her staff members, noting their progress on tasks at hand, showing appreciation for their work by that small gesture. And it was clear that she is admired by her team.
Nicole Brisson is a culinary badass.
In addition to cooking and recipe development, menu creation and running a full back of the house staff, Nicole oversees a dynamic meat program including charcuterie and dry aging and works with the best meat producers in the country to create a one of a kind dining experience (Moment of Truth – I am a charcuterie whore!). She allowed me into the on-premises meat locker at the restaurant and you can smell the beefiness even when it’s raw and cold. If you have never been in a meat locker there is a certain smell that really good meat has. I can’t describe it, but when you smell it, you know it! Having a parent who is a butcher, I marveled at the marbling and overall exceptional beauty of the beef. At an off-site location she handles the receiving and storage of the beef in the dry aging process. In addition, a recent diagnosis of celiac disease has surreptitiously steered her menu development toward gluten free options in all aspects except the pasta dishes. It is so second nature to her she doesn’t even realize she is doing it until a staff member asks, “Is this gluten free?” At that point she has to pause and consider the ingredients, and more likely than not, it is gluten free. Don’t worry though, she isn’t messing with the pastas.
with Mario Batali at Carnevino
Batali’s respect for her was evident
Invited to a private event at Carnevino, I was given the opportunity to watch Nicole Brisson at work, not only with her team and the clients, but with Mario Batali. She seamlessly moved from engaging conversationalist to taking charge of the staff. She took time to point out specific dishes to guests at the different stations so everyone knew there were plenty of options to choose from on the tables. Batali’s respect and gratitude for her and her work was evident when I asked him for the photo in this article. He paused from taking photos with fans and guests to make sure I had what I needed to highlight Nicole’s place in his organization. As a complete sidebar – her staff allowed to me run the fancy–schmancy slicer for the prosciutto. I am now convinced that I need one in my kitchen for the jamon de serrano I have in the fridge. Never mind my goofy face, check out the charcuterie!
Charcuterie whore at work – I totally need that slicer!
Seemingly at the top of her game, I asked what was next for her. She didn’t have a ready answer for the question. Ultimately it would be opening her own place and she is confident she would have support, both financially and personally; but she isn’t ready to take that step yet. Nicole loves what she is doing and wants to continue building what she is currently working on right now. The future is bright for Nicole Brisson and I for one can’t wait to see what she does in that future.
After a sold out pop up at Made LV, I sat down with Mike Minor in a dark bar in broad daylight. He said a lot of things, but the one sentence that stuck out in my mind is this: “I AM Vegas.” He told me that he loves this town and having grown up here, is connected to it in so many ways and feels it is his responsibility to bring great food to the community in any way he can. And he has been doing that for more than 20 years.
The first time I saw Mike Minor in action was at Three Square Food Bank. My favorite local charity had invited me to be part of an audience in their demo kitchen. Several chefs cooked live and chatted with the guests, but he was the stunner for me. He was engaging, with an infectious smile and completely present in the moment, doing what he loved to do. Then I got to know him and I realized that who I saw at the Food Bank, wasn’t a “show persona” it was the real deal. He looks like a Rock-a-Billy guy with the tattoos, fabulous moustache, and the slicked back, on point hair. He rides a motorcycle and he IS a Rock-a-Billy guy with a love of Elvis and the genre. But, unlike a lot of Vegas natives, he doesn’t long for the old times. He embraces what is going on now, welcomes newcomers and tourists and knows that all change leads to great growth. His life mirrors Vegas in that homage is paid to the past while always making way for the new.
I had met Mike socially and professionally on many occasions and what I didn’t know about him could fill a book and he should write one someday. He quit high school to work full time in the culinary industry, going back at 20 to get his GED. He was the kid my mom warned me about. He never went to culinary school. He sucked when he first started and worked twice as hard as everyone else to get it right. He is a cancer survivor. He’s just a plain BAD ASS survivor!
He started working at age 13, lying about his age, to make his own money because he wanted to buy cool clothes. Mike has done literally every job in this industry from dishwasher and busboy to Executive Chef. He’s worked in every conceivable situation from a kid friendly pizza joint to a mecca of fine dining. With a smile on his face he openly admits when he started, he was terrible at everything, but his passion for the industry and food in general made him work hard to get better. In his mid-twenties, Mike was the youngest Director of Culinary The Hard Rock had ever seen. He was responsible for the west coast and loved his job. He says he learned something at every single job, but he credits The Hard Rock for instilling in him lifelong values and missions that still drive him today – “Love All, Serve All” and “Take Time to Be Kind”. The need to give back to the community he lives in, treating co-workers, clients and employees with respect and a friendly face, and being present in the moment are all things he learned at The Hard Rock. He admits when he started there in management, he was “in way over [his] head”, but he had a great general manager who took him under his wing and set him on a path for success. Leading by example and coaching Mike to be the best he could be. Mike said, “If it wasn’t for that leadership, I’d have been fired”. He remembers that and brings it with him to every job he has.
Flash forward and Mike is working as the Executive Chef for Susan Feniger and Mary Sue Milliken at Border Grill. He traveled all over Mexico with them, learning from real people, not restaurants, how to create authentic dishes from every region of Mexico. And then he famously and amicably leaves that “dream job” to jump out on his own with his Truck U Barbeque food truck. Some might say he’s crazy, I say he’s crazy smart. He’s never been happier. He is making the food he wants to make and serving directly to the people eating it. There is no wall between him and the client. He gets to work with his best friend, wife Natalia, and his sister. His truck is completely paid for, the entire kitchen is brand new, retro-fitted into an existing frame that was custom painted to represent his flair, his style and who he truly is.
Offered the chance to compete on The Great Food Truck Race, he declined. Seven weeks on the road, cut off from his core clients, didn’t appeal to him and Natalia. He says he enjoys First Friday downtown because it gives him an opportunity to connect with the community, unfortunately you won’t find him at lunch time like you will some trucks. He cooks on demand and because everything is made fresh for each outing (nothing is reheated, or reused) it doesn’t make fiscal sense to drive around and hope to sell out. Anything that is left over at the end of an event is donated to the Las Vegas Mission (remember – Take Time to Be Kind and Love All, Serve All?). If you haven’t eaten from his truck, you are missing out. My personal favorite is the pulled pork sandWISH*. It’s magical. I don’t care for BBQ sauce, but I’ll eat Mike’s. It’s the perfect balance of sweet, salty and spicy. Friend John who eats a “paleo” diet splurges on the Burnt End Burrito. In fact, he said to me one day, “You have to try this food truck called Truck U. They have this burrito that I go off my diet for it’s so good.” Yeah John, I know all about it.
Pork Torta – Photo Courtesy of Big Tom Photography
Money isn’t everything, but the ability to be true to who you are and make the living and the life you want to make IS everything to Mike. He’s really excited about what is going on in downtown and feels like that is the next step. He has a business plan for growth and a brick and mortar restaurant serving his barbeque is what’s on the forecast. Because truly good barbeque is a low and slow procedure, he envisions a lunch only place, starting the food the night before and staying open until he sells out. Mike and Natalia are looking for the perfect location to get started on their next big project. I, for one, can’t wait!
Mike has been approached more than once to be on TV and he would love that, but on his terms. Check out this sizzle reel for a proposed show. He and Natalia would like nothing more than to take their truck on the road and do as he did in Mexico with Susan and Mary Sue; learn to make regional specialties from the people who make them every day. Sourcing local ingredients, learning traditional techniques and meeting folks all across the country.
In the meantime follow Truck U BBQ on Facebook to find out where they will be and check out Mike’s websites www.chefminor.com and www.truckubbq.com Keep an eye open for appearances at Pop Up events like the one last week at Made LV. This is just a small snapshot of what happened there to see more, go HERE, Tom O’Connor took some great shots and go to his website Big Tom Photography to see more
In Vegas like many cities, there are corridors of “things to do” and “places to go”. Here, most notably it’s The Strip, but there are pockets of retailers and restaurants that are NOT on the strip and seeking them out is fairly easy. What’s more difficult is finding and making the time to go to THAT restaurant that has NOTHING else around it. Your destination IS that restaurant. It’s not some place you go before or after a show because it isn’t near any of the theatres. You don’t go there for lunch with the girls because it isn’t open for lunch and it’s nowhere near the mall. And it’s not on a stretch of street with other retailers. That restaurant is The Barrymore.
On Convention Center Drive you will find the Royal Resort. It’s perfect if you are attending a conference or event at the Convention Center, but not near anything else really. Inside the lobby and to the left, behind an almost disguised door, enter The Barrymore. It’s unexpectedly lush and filled with interesting details that draw your eye everywhere you look, from the ceiling covered in film reels to the Rorschach style prints depicting famous faces (Sinatra, Chaplin, Capone, etc.). Expertly mixed cocktails started off the night. Don’t ask me about the wine list, I can’t enjoy wine (allergy), but the wine room looked amazing.
While the room intrigues you visually, the menu will entice your taste buds. It’s simple on the surface. Traditional Steakhouse fave make up the majority of the menu, but with elegant twists and touches. Of course you will find your ribeye and strip steak, but I could have made a meal on the apps and the sides alone (Moment of Truth – I am not a fan of Steakhouses. I am the asshole who orders the fish at these places. And yes, I had the fish). The grilled octopus was one of the best versions I have ever had. Served Niçoise style with baby potatoes and a frisee salad, I was a happy camper. It’s easy to fuck up octopus – it can turn rubbery REALLY easily, so a well-executed octopus dish is a thing of beauty.
Grilled Octopus Nicoise
And let’s not forget the foie gras served with a crepe and grilled sweet corn. Yeah, that!
Foie Gras with crepe and grilled sweet corn
John’s aged ribeye was cooked perfectly as was my Branzino, but for me the stars of this show were the apps and sides. Chef Eric Lhuillier does a masterful job with everything. He is one of my personal and professional favorites here in Vegas. I am not even a fan of creamed corn, but it was damn near impossible to stop eating his version with lobster. Even had the lobster NOT been in it, I would have had seconds; it was that good.
Aged rib eye with blue cheese
Lobster Creamed Corn
Watermelon and tomato salad with blue cheese
As if the food wasn’t good enough, they brought out this…
My favorite dessert of all time – French Macarons – this one chocolate hazelnut
I know it’s not “cool” to be the early diners, but we do it out of necessity. John’s first client is in the door at 7 am, so we tend to eat earlier than most folks. On the Wednesday evening we dined, The Barrymore was quiet when we arrived, but jumping by the time we left. I recommend making a reservation for dinner. Take the time, make a trip and enjoy. Trust me, it’s worth it.
Sister Nancy has been talking about Martorano’s meatballs for years. She is a complete devotee. So when Las Vegas Food & Beverage Professional sent me to meet with Steve Martorano for a piece for the May issue – not out yet – I jumped at the chance. I really liked this guy and because we had such a great chat, I decided to share with you a much more in depth version of our discussion here. He was even so open that when I mentioned Nancy’s adoration, he said, “Call her. Let me talk to her.” So I did (Yeah. Best. Sister. EVER.). And stupidly there are no pics of him and me together! This is a longer piece than usual, but the subject matter demanded it!
At first glance Steve Martorano is intimidating. He’s a big, well-muscled guy with tattoos like many chefs and cooks these days, but it’s more than that. He cuts an imposing figure. That feeling of intimidation goes right out the window when he utters, “How you doin’?” Immediately I was transported back to my roots and we fell into a very natural conversation. I met with Steve while he was in town for Vegas Uncork’d after just receiving the Dom Perignon Award of Excellence at UNLVino. I was invited to meet with him in a private setting with his lovely fiancé and he was refreshing, charming, and unguarded in our interview. He was also remarkably candid once he realized I speak like he does, lightly peppered with profanity. That fact made him all the more endearing to me. (Moment of Truth – if you know me at all, you know curbing my profanity requires Herculean strength.)
He said as an only child he learned to do stuff for himself without relying on siblings to help him out, but notes that his mother spoiled him. I get that, being the mother of an only son. However, growing up in south Philly, Steve had few choices for a career. He could go into the “family business”, aka The Mob, and spend part of his life in jail like friends and family, or he could work hard and live hand to mouth. He wanted more, but had no vision of what that “more” would look like. His dad owned a neighborhood bar and Steve convinced his dad to let him put food on the menu one night. It was something his dad had never considered before, and he was dubious about the success of bringing people into his bar to eat, flat out saying, “It’s not gonna work.” Steve went ahead and did it. He sold out the room and then his dad said, “Ok, what’s next?” What came next was a series of small business ventures which grew into the business he has now.
Steve is passionate about his food. He refuses to compromise on quality at any stage of the process. “Gravy and meatballs are made every day. There are no vats of anything sitting in my walk-in”. When you go to his resto you HAVE to try the house made mozzarella;fried golden brown and topped with “sauce”, it’s just fabulous! Everything on the menu is taste tested by Steve personally. If he wouldn’t eat it at home, it doesn’t go on the menu, no matter how trendy it might be. He shared that he doesn’t care for sea urchin or salmon and they won’t ever appear on his menu because he personally can’t taste test them for excellence. Steve’s food isn’t fancy; it’s family style and fun. Eating his food was just like eating at my mother in law’s table. The pigs’ feet and pork braciole tasted so much like hers that my husband wanted to pick up the feet and eat them with his hands to get every glorious bite off the bones. If you ever had a good Italian American friend and got to eat at their table, that is what Steve’s food is all about. He says that the best compliment anyone can give him is “this tastes just like Mom used to make”. That’s what he is striving for. He is very smart in that he is not trying to please everyone, but he is trying to make the best Italian American food he knows how to make from the silky gravy, to the flavorful meatball to the al dente pasta.
Lamb Bolognese
The World Famous Meatball
And Steve is not just passionate about his food, but feels responsible for his food. When you go to a Martorano’s and he is in house, you won’t find him touching tables, glad handing and visiting in the dining room. You will find him in the kitchen, working the line (not expediting) and taking personal responsibility for each dish that enters the dining room. That dedication to his craft is part of what earns him respect from his line cooks. All too often when you go to a celebrity chef’s resto, they are NOT the ones cooking your food, even if they are in house, because they are too busy posing for pics and greeting the guests. If Steve is in house, don’t be afraid to ask to say hello though. He makes time for his guests frequently and invites them into the kitchen for a photo opp or to give them the chance to chat. At Vegas Uncork’d he was front and center at his booth, personally serving everyone and thanking them for stopping by while posing for pics. And of course he was his gracious, welcoming self throughout. His trademark “Yo, Cuz!” could be heard as he greeted people immediately making them feel like family in much the same way his food does.
Steve working the line where he is most comfortable.
The menu is not extensive, it’s very approachable. The thing that triggered me into laughter, out loud, in the restaurant was Steve’s personal quotes on the menu about his food, no substitutions – “don’t break my balls” – and how you either “get it” or you don’t. Clearly, I got it, because I enjoyed everything about my Martorano’s experience, from the ambient swing music to the movies on the flat screens to the food itself. And take note fellow restaurateurs; while the lighting was dim in the restaurant, I didn’t need to whip out my flashlight phone app to read the menu, it was backlit. A small detail for sure, but one I absolutely appreciated.
Despite all of his success, two cookbooks, five restaurants and a recent segment on Jimmy Kimmel (above), and other numerous TV appearances he still feels like a bit of an outsider. He doesn’t like to be called CHEF even though he runs a kitchen. He feels he is just a neighborhood guy who cooks. He admittedly admires top tier chefs and what they do, but he feels he is not like them partially because he is self-taught. His humble beginnings and his self-effacing manner make him immediately likable. He acknowledges he “lucked into” everything. Being a restaurateur was not a dream of his. Unlike other restaurateurs and chefs who KNEW this business was their destiny, Steve had no vision of this being his future. He started cooking to pay the bills and to stay out of trouble and in some ways feels he stumbled into success. “I don’t know another guy [in this industry] that came from literally nothing and now has five joints of his own. Do you?” Indeed, both lucky and humble.
I love pork. That was not always the case. I have always loved sausage and bacon and some ham, but pork roast, chops and fresh ham were NEVER my faves. John was the exact opposite. When I met and married John he couldn’t stand fish and chicken. Then we discovered the problem…he had never had it made properly. His Mom knew how to make chicken and fish in exactly 3 ways, all with the same seasonings – baked dry as a bone, broiled within an inch of its life and greasy fried. We figured this out early in our marriage and now he is a sushi lover and eats all manner of fowl with a smile. It wasn’t until about 6 years ago that I realized my problem with pork (and lamb FYI) wasn’t the flesh itself, it was that Mom, bless her heart, really isn’t that good of a cook, but I can’t really blame her. My grandmother was a terrible cook too. The only thing she made REALLY well was pot roast – probably because you are supposed to cook the shit out of it and she was good at that – and all other pot roasts are forever compared to hers. (Moment of Truth – Mom LOVES to bake and cook with the kids, but despises making dinner every night. Her favorite thing to make for dinner is reservations).
As I began eating at multicourse tastings where I didn’t have a choice on the menu, and I started hanging out with chefs and other food writers, I found myself eating all the things that I previously thought I didn’t like. What a revelation to have pork tartare. A mind blowing experience to have a pork chop, cooked barely medium with so much flavor and so juicy that it required a napkin. That had never happened in my youth I can promise you.
So now, here I am cooking pork, stuffing my own sausages, smoking bacon and ham and even curing my own pancetta. And buying a pig…well, part of a pig. Friend John M told me about a family run farm that allows you to buy shares of animals. We went in together on a half pig and it was picked up Friday. Dealing with a family farm that humanely raises and slaughters my food appeals to me on so many levels. I love supporting a small business. I love knowing exactly what’s going in my belly and shopping local when possible is also a big thing for me. While many of you may not think that Utah is local, it’s less than 100 miles from my doorstep and there aren’t a ton of meat producers here in the Vegas Valley that sell direct to consumer.
I have to say, I thought with it being a family farm that it would arrive fresh and wrapped in butcher paper, ready for me to prep for the freezer. NOT SO! It arrived frozen and already vac sealed, saving me a step. We divied up the goods and they are safely ensconced in my freezer awaiting the tender ministrations of me and friends. I have no idea what I will be cooking first, but I am sure with quality like this, it’s bound to taste great.
While you wait for my next installment, I suggest you drool over these porktacular pics! And if you like them here is a shameless plea to SHARE and /or SUBSCRIBE to the blog and the FB page and follow along on Instagram and Twitter for a first look at what I am eating NOW.
Please forgive the quality of some of these pics – they were before I got my swanky new camera!
Porchetta waiting to be sliced at MTO’s Swine & Wine dinner
Cochinita Pibil by Chef Jose “Lupe” Avila
Now closed Comme Ca’s Brian Howard had Kurobuta pork tartare on the menu for Bacon Day with crispy chicharons.
Charcuterie by the amazing Brain Howard at the now closed Comme Ca
